Robert Smithson's Spiral Jetty - Iconic American Art waiting for your visit on the Great Salt Lake

The Spiral Jetty by Robert Smithson, on the North Shore of the Great Salt Lake, Photo by Mike Matson

Described as "The most famous work of American art that almost nobody has ever seen in the flesh," (by Michael Kimmelman in his 2003 article for the New York Times) Robert Smithson's Spiral Jetty can be found high and dry these days on the northeast shore of the Great Salt Lake.

Utah may not be famous for its thriving art scene, but it is home to an iconic rock sculpture considered to be one of the most important pieces in the American Earth Art movement of the 1960's. The Spiral Jetty is a fascinating piece for its peculiar nature and dubious title of "art". It warrants a visit, if only to get your mind thinking about its reason for being.

Driving out to the sculpture, it's hard not to wonder if reaching the Spiral Jetty is as much a part of the artwork as seeing. The Spiral Jetty sits on a deserted piece of beach below a sagebrush speckled hill of black basalt boulders. The lake stretches out to the horizon where distant mountain ranges break up the flatness like islands in an inland sea. The scale is grand, making the 1,500 foot rock and sand jetty feel surprisingly small in comparison. Other visitors are few, and aside from the chirping birds you'll probably find yourself alone to contemplate the vast openness of the landscape. The closest "civilization" to the Spiral Jetty is the Golden Spike National Historic Site, a small outpost commemorating the connection of the first transcontinental railroad linking the East and West Coast in 1869. The Golden Spike Site marks the middle of nowhere as much as the meeting point of a railway, and the Spiral Jetty is sixteen bumpy miles further down the unmaintained road. Imagine the disbelief of the Ogden contractor Bob Phillips, when Smithson hired him to help build the 6,650 ton basalt rock sculpture on the edge of nowhere.

Smithson designed his sculpture to extend out into the edge of the Great Salt Lake, where the water was red from algae. Nature had different plans though, and the lake water level and algae production have fluctuated over the years. The Spiral Jetty was visible for its first two years of existence, but was then submerged in the lake as the water level rose during heavy snow years. It wasn't until 2002 that the Jetty re-emerged after 30 years beneath the fluctuating water. Since then the sculpture has been intermittently visible at the water's edge. If the level of the lake falls below 4,197 feet the sculpture is above water, if the water's surface rises above, it disappears. Smithson anticipated the lake would fluctuate and was a fan of the natural process of entropy, but you can't help but wonder what he would of thought of the re-emerging sculpture more than 30 years after its creation. We'll never know for sure, because Smithson died 3 years after he finished Spiral Jetty in a plane crash scouting another project in Texas.

For more info: Robert Smithson.com

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Volunteers wanted for Audubon Society's annual Christmas Bird Count in Zion National Park

The National Audubon Society's Christmas Bird Count in Zion National Park will be held on Saturday, December19th. This is the 38th year Zion has participated in the birding event. The Audubon Society project is an effort to count as many birds as possible in different locations across the country in a 24 hour period.

This years Zion Christmas Bird Count will be focused in an area 15 miles in diameter (177 square miles) within the national park. The official count will be included in a special edition of American Birds Magazine.

Volunteers of all skill levels are encouraged to participate. This is great opportunity for wildlife enthusiasts to contribute to a national bird census that can have a real impact on bird conservation, according to the Audubon Society's website:

"Each of the citizen scientists who annually braves snow, wind, or rain, to take part in the Christmas Bird Count makes an enormous contribution to conservation. Audubon and other organizations use data collected in this longest-running wildlife census to assess the health of bird populations - and to help guide conservation action."

It's also a chance to rub shoulders with and learn from experienced and knowledgeable birders.

Last year, volunteers tallied more than 5,000 birds including 85 different species in Zion. 55,000 volunteers participated in the nationwide.

To volunteer or to find out more information about the bird count, contact Claire Crow at 435-772-0212 or claire_crow@nps.gov.

The BLM has proposed 63 sites in Nine Mile Canyon for the National Register of Historic Places

The Bureau of Land Management has proposed 63 sites in Utah's Nine Mile Canyon for the National Register of Historic Places. Nine Mile Canyon, located on the Tavaputs Plateau in Northeastern Utah is home to as many as 10,000 different rock art drawings. Nicknamed "the longest art gallery in the world," Nine Mile Canyon contains one of the densest concentrations of Fremont culture rock art anywhere in Utah.

Since 2002, deposits of natural gas are being developed on the Tavaputs Plateau. Truck traffic going to and from these natural gas wells is disturbing enough dust in Nine Mile Canyon that preservationists and rock art lovers are concerned the irreplaceable archaeological sites could be damaged. With more development pending, the BLM and conservation groups like the Nine Mile Coalition, and the National Trust for Historic Preservation are trying to call attention to the situation.

The rock art, or petroglyphs (drawings pecked or carved into the stone) found in Nine Mile Canyon have been chiseled out of sandstone covered in dark "desert varnish." The figures, formed in the freshly exposed rock, stand out in contrast to the darker, older background rock of the panels. The perpetual dust kicked up by large truck traffic in the canyon threatens to dull the contrast, and visual power of these rock art panels.

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While the National Register of Historic Places wouldn't provide protection for the archaeological sites in Nine Mile Canyon, it would recognize their importance.

For more information about the Fremont Culture and their rock art.

Thanksgiving Feast - Dutch Oven Style

Did you know the Dutch Oven is the official cooking pot of the state of Utah? That's right, the Dutch Oven

was designated Utah's official cooking pot in 1997 for its historic use by early Utah settlers.

The Dutch Oven, a popular outdoor cooking tool for both Utah pioneers and modern-day outdoor enthusiasts, can be used to prepare a wide variety of delicious cuisine in settings usually reserved for roasting hot dogs and S'mores.

Dutch Ovens are cast-iron pots with snug fitting lids that are specifically designed for cooking directly in the coals of an open fire. The oven’s lid is equipped with a tall iron lip, allowing coals to be added to the top of the pot, baking the contents of the oven evenly, much like an modern household oven. Dutch Ovens work so well in fact, that many people who've used them in the outdoors have incorporated them into their regular cooking repertoire.

If you’re looking for a fun new dish to add to your Thanksgiving feast this year, why not consider baking one of your courses in a Dutch Oven? You might just end up with a new classic. And you’ll know exactly what to prepare on your next camping trip.

Here’s a couple recipe ideas to stoke your creative cooking fire!

Thanksgiving Roasted Herb Turkey

Cooking a full turkey is always a labor intensive process. Why not make it fun by doing it in a Dutch Oven?
Here's how:

• 1 turkey
• 1 onion
• 2-3 cloves garlic chopped
• 6 cloves garlic pressed
• 1 cup water

Basting Sauce

• 1/2 cup butter
• 1 tsp dried mint leaves
• 1/2 tsp dried thyme
• 1/2 tsp dried sage
• 1/2 tsp dried marjoram
• 1/2 tsp sweet basil
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tsp black pepper

Thaw turkey if frozen. Before preparing the turkey, light a pile of at least 50 charcoal briquettes for the Dutch Oven.

Place thawed turkey in a 15 inch Dutch Oven. Slice onion into large pieces and place them in the turkey cavity with the chopped garlic cloves. Rub the remaining pressed garlic over the outside of the turkey. Pour water in the bottom of the Dutch Oven. Put the lid on the pot and add 15-20 briquettes to the bottom of the pot and 20-25 on top.

Melt butter in a separate pan and add the herbs to create a basting sauce. Frequently baste the turkey with the herb sauce as it cooks.

Add fresh coals about once an hour. Cook the turkey until the center of the turkey's temperature reaches 170 degrees.

Marshmallow Sweet Potato Casserole

What could be a better marriage between outdoor cooking and Thanksgiving than borrowing marshmallows from the campfire classic Smores, and adding them to the traditional Thanksgiving sweet potato dish?

• About 8 sweet potatoes or yams
• 2 Tbsp butter
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp paprika
• 1/2 pound marshmallows

Boil the sweet potatoes in water until they are tender. This can be done in the Dutch Oven first or in a regular stove-top pot, whichever is easier given your cooking conditions. Remove the skins and mash the sweet potatoes. Add butter, milk, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and paprika. Butter the sides and bottom of the Dutch Oven and fill it with the mashed sweet potatoes. Place the marshmallows on top of the sweet potatoes. Bake the casserole by placing 10-15 coals below the Dutch oven and 5-10 coals on top. Let the dish bake until the marshmallows become golden-brown.

Bighorn Sheep Festival in Moab - November 20-21, 2009

Head-butting bighorn rams fighting it out for the rights to mate with the top female sheep in the herd. How often do you get a chance to see exciting wildlife behavior like this in a wilderness setting?

Only once a year at best. Most of the year rams (male) and ewes (females) hardly interact at all, living their lives in separate family groups. But at the Bighorn Sheep Festival in Moab in late November, you'll have an opportunity to see some of the most exciting activity of the year. The breeding season, or "rut," is in full swing and male bighorns are clashing horns in their annual competition to attract the attention of the lovely ladies.

The Utah Division of Wildlife Resources is hosting its annual Bighorn Sheep Festival in Moab this November 20th and November 21st. DWR biologists will keep a watchful eye on the whereabouts of Moab's bighorn sheep leading up to the event, and guide those attending to the most likely spots for a sighting. Biologists will lead the group to likely spots near paved roads in Moab Canyon and along the Colorado River Corridor. Event attendees should bring spotting scopes or binoculars if they can, and the biologists will provide them for those who can't. You're welcome to follow along in your own vehicle or join the group in vehicles provided by the DWR guides.

The guides will meet the public on Saturday morning (Nov 21) at 8am at the Moab information center. Sheep watchers should expect the event to last until early afternoon. While DWR Outreach Manager Brent Stettler can't guarantee a close-up encounter, but he adds, "We almost always see sheep."

For more info about the event visit the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources website. Or contact Brent Stettler personally at by phone at 435/613-3707, or by email at brentstettler@utah.gov.

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Cut your own Christmas Tree this year in Utah's National Forest

"The perfect Christmas tree? All Christmas trees are perfect!" - Charles N. Barnard

Maybe so, but that doesn't mean that any old tree will do. For many families going out and picking the perfect Christmas tree is a long standing tradition. And for some, that tradition isn't complete without hiking into the woods, selecting the perfect tree, and cutting it themselves.

In Utah, permits to cut Christmas trees on national forest land are starting to go on sale. District offices in Fishlake and Dixie National Forests are now selling permits, costing about $10. Between now and the end November, permits will go on sale in forests across the state.

All species of trees except Ponderosa pine trees can be cut with a permit. Trees up to eight feet tall may be selected and they should be cut near the ground - about eight inches above the ground. Rules vary in each Ranger District. Here's a link to the specific rules and regulations for cutting trees on the official US Forest Service website. Try to select your tree from a densely forest area, where thining the stand will be a benefit the forest.

Horsethief Campground outside Canyonlands National Park - Campground of the Week

It's too cold to even think about camping in northern Utah right now...in fact it's snowing in as I write this. So if you've got camping on your mind, you've got to be thinking southern Utah, where it'll be considerably warmer. It was actually perfect near Moab this past weekend, where Sonja and I spent a couple days working on landscape photography and squeezed in a little bit of climbing as well.

Saturday morning we woke up early to catch sunrise with our cameras at Mesa Arch in Canyonlands National Park. If you're interested in the details on how to photograph the iconic landmark, check out my article here on www.examiner.com. We arrived late Friday night, so we didn't want to drive all the way into the park, but wanted to be within striking distance Saturday morning for our date with the magic of sunrise. So we stayed at one of my favorite BLM sites in the Moab area, Horsethief Campground. You can also find this description with all the campgrounds in the state of Utah in my guidebook Moon Utah Camping.

Horsethief Campground Scenic rating: 7

This new campground is an excellent alternative to the limited camping options in the northern part of Canyonlands National Park. The campground is a few miles from the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park and Dead Horse Point State Park. The large campground sits on a plateau-like landscape with expansive views to the southwest of the 11,000-foot peaks of the Herny Mountains. Well-spaced sites with flat gravel tent pads sit in a pygmy forest of pinyon pine and juniper trees. On the downside, these small trees and the scrubby sagebrush dotting the campground provide little shelter from the sun or wind. In this desert environment that regularly sees temperatures above 100 degrees F, this lack of shade is a real concern. Three gravel loops named after different horse breeds lead to sites with good privacy.

Campsites, facilities: There are 60 sites for tents and large RVs. Picnic tables, barbeque grills, garbage service, and vault toilets are provided. There is no drinking water. Leashed pets are permitted.

Reservations, fees: Reservations are not accepted. The fee is $12 per site. Open year-round.

Directions: From Moab, drive north on Hwy. 191 for nine miles and turn left onto Rte. 313 following signs to Canyonlands National Park. Continue 12 miles on Rte. 313 and turn right onto a gravel road signed Horsethief Campground. Continue 0.5 mile to Horsethief Campground.

GPS Coordinates: N 38 35.050' W 109 48.854'

Contact: BLM Moab Field Office, 435/259-2100

The Alpine Loop Scenic Byway: the best scenic loop drive in the Wasatch

The scenic Sunday drive is an American Classic! Like Thanksgiving turkey, apple pie, or Super Bowl Sunday, the Sunday scenic drive is an American tradition. Americans have always been fond of their cars and there's no better way to enjoy your automobile than taking it for a cruise. No traffic, no pressure, no time limits. Just you, your car and the road, and the scenery, of course. Not all scenic drives are created equal however. One of the key components of an enjoyable scenic drive is that it needs to be close to home, yet far enough away that it feels new and exciting.

If you live along the Wasatch Front, there's not a prettier stretch of pavement for a weekend gettaway than the Alpine Loop connecting American Fork Canyon and Provo Canyon. The Alpine Loop Scenic Byway (State Route 92) can be approached via American Fork Canyon through the town of Alpine, or alternatively from Provo Canyon (US Highway 189). Either way you approach it, the Alpine Loop promises stunning vistas and brilliant fall scenery. The loop drive curles around Mt. Timpanogos, one of the most dramatic summits in the Wasatch Mountains. Along the way, get out and stretch the legs by checking out Timpanogos Cave National Monument in American Fork Canyon. If you're interested in extending your outing, consider hiking up to the cave system. This is the last weekend the cave is open for tours before it closes for the season. The three cavern cave system is accessed via a paved trail that gains over a 1,000 feet. The cave can only be visited with an official National Park Service tour. Tour tickets are available at the monument, the tour takes approximately 3 hours.

Provo Canyon's Bridal Veil Falls offers another beautiful opportunity to get out of the car along this drive. The narrow ribbon of falls cascades down a 600 foot high step-like limestone rock formation on the south side of the canyon. The falls can be viewed by pulling off the highway at the Bridal Veil Falls/Nunn's Park parking lot. A short walk up the Provo River Trail (0.5 miles) will lead to the base of the falls.

The Alpine Loop Drive is best done in the next few weeks. Early fall storms have cloaked the upper reaches of Mt. Timpanogos in a blanket of white (see the photo above), adding to its already dramatic appearence, but the road remains snow free. The road won't be open for long though, it closes for the winter season as soon as it's covered by snow.

Here's the view looking west down American Fork Canyon - Photo by Mike Matson

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For more info: on driving the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, on camping along the Alpine Loop, onTimpanogos Cave National Monument, on Bridal Veil Falls

Five fun ways to enjoy the fall colors in the Wasatch Mountains

Autumn has officially arrived and the Wasatch Mountains are awash in fall color! The aspens and maples are starting to turn and the palate runs from a deep gold to fiery red. Autumn is one of the most enjoyable times of year to experience Utah's mountains, but the best colors don't last long. When the first storm of the season rolls in, many of the leaves get knocked off the trees and before you know it, things have that, stark, wintery feel. The next two weeks will be the peak of the fall color.

Here's five quick ideas on how to get out into the Wasatch Range and enjoy the color while it's at its best!

1) Hike to Mary and Catherine Lakes near Brighton at the top of Big Cottownood Canyon. This chain of small mountain lakes (also includes the pond-like Dog and Martha Lakes) sit in a series of saddles above Brighton Ski Resort near the crest of the Wasatch Range. At just under four miles round-trip, the hike is a great half-day outing. The scenery gets progressively more impressive as you hike up, culminating at Catherine Lake, which sits in the bottom of granite cirque perched between Big Cottonwood and Little Cottonwood Canyons. Keep your eyes peeled for moose grazing on the foliage around the lakes. Their huge antlers are especially impressive during fall!

2) Rock climb at the Hellgate Cliffs above Alta in Little Cottonwood Canyon. In the rock climbing world, Little Cottonwood Canyon is known for its clean granite rock and vibrant bouldering scene. But up near the top of the canyon near the little town of Alta, you'll find excellent sport climbing on white and black streaked limestone cliffs. Great views all the way down the canyon give climbers a chance to appreciate the beautiful fall colors while they clamor up the rocks.

3) Spend a day with your camera on Mt. Timpanogos. Mt. Timp, as locals call it, is the jewel of the southern Wasatch. At 11,749 feet, Timp is the second highest peak in the Wasatch Range, and stands dramatically above the town of Provo. Its open slopes and steep topography make it a stunning place to take pictures. And if you have the energy to get there, the summit offers dramatic 360 degree views. There are photo-ops all along the trail and at the base of the mountain at the Sundace Resort. So pick your adventure and don't forget your camera!

4) Take a scenic drive up Big Cottonwood Canyon, over Guardsman Pass, and down into Park City. If you're looking for a low-key weekend adventure, just hop in the car and take a mountain drive. It takes about an hour to drive from Salt Lake City, up Big Cottonwood Canyon, over Guardsman Pass, and back down into Park City. Guardsman Pass will close for winter once it starts to snow, so this is the best time to cruise this scenic route. Enjoy dramatic views of the Wasatch from down in the canyon and wide open vistas over Park City and the Heber Valley from the pass. Golden and orange aspens line the road, with the brightest colors at the upper elevations. Note: Guardsman Pass is not paved. The road is well graded and appropriate for most cars.

5) Mountain biking in Park City. Park City is northern Utah's mountain biking capital. Trails branch out like a spider web from downtown in every direction. Because Park City is higher in elevation than Salt Lake, the fall colors are significantly more pronounced. Riders will be welcomed by a constant birage of crimson from the rocky mountain maple trees lining the single track. If you need somewhere to start, check out the Lost Prospector Trail right above town.

For more info: On the hike to Mary and Catherine Lakes. On climbing at Hellgate Cliffs in Little Cottonwood Canyon. On Mt. Timpanogos. On driving over Guardsman Pass. On mountain biking in and around Park City. For a map of Park City mountain bike trails.

Buckskin Gulch Story Published in the Utah Adventure Journal

Check out my latest feature story about Buckskin Gulch in the fall issue of the quarterly magazine, Utah Adventure Journal. The magazine is new this year, it's free, and can be found at many of the outdoor shops in Salt Lake City like REI, IME, Black Diamond, Christy Sports, Canyon Bicycles, etc. They go fast, so pick one up soon! If you're a Salt Lake local, it's definitely worth checking out. You can also read the story and see the photos on-line at their new website www.outdoorutah.com/adventurejournal.

Zion National Park's Obervation Point Trail / East Rim Trail

The Observation Point / East Rim Trail (7 miles round-trip) is one of Zion's most spectacular (and strenuous) hikes. Built in the 1930's by the Civilian Conservation Corps, this trail is literally carved out of the rock walls of the canyon. It climbs steeply from the canyon floor up through the enchanting Echo Canyon before joining the East Rim Trail up high on the desert rim. The route offers hikers outstanding views back down Zion Canyon from Observation Point, a vista you won't soon forget. Though similar in length, Observation Point is higher than Angel's Landing, and is far less busy.


The trail is easily accessible via the park service shuttle bus service running through the park. If you're camping at South or Watchman Campgrounds near the park entrance, just hop on the bus and ride it up canyon to the Weeping Rock stop. That's where the real work (and fun) begins. Expect to get some serious exercise in the first three miles, as the trail gains about 2,000 vertical feet. The paved track winds through wildly striated sandstone formations carved by the erosive power of water and wind. You'll see sagebrush lizards, Indian Paintbrush wildflowers, and short, dramatic slot canyons on your way to the top. After three miles of climbing the trail joins the East Rim trail for a half mile to Observation Point. This flat rim-edge section offers stellar views down into the Zion Canyon. Enjoy the vistas and rest your knees for the jarring descent back to the canyon floor.


Bring plenty of water and food for this day hike. It can be hot this time of year, and cold if there are thundershowers. You'll also be happy if you take a camera with you, in my opinion there isn't a better spot to capture Zion Canyon in the park. Expect to spend at least five hours on the trail, if not more.

Lone Peak Cirque: A Perfect 10

I was lucky enough to spend the past two days backpacking and rock climbing up high in the Wasatch Mountains at Lone Peak Cirque. The place is spectacular! And getting there will kick your butt. There's no way around it, you pay the price to reach Lone Peak, but once you're there, it's worth it.
My friend Kelley Paasch (above on the approach hiking through the first Hammongog) and I climbed two different routes on the gray alpine granite walls that rise around the cirque. First, we climbed the Lowe Route (5.8) on the Question Mark Wall and then the next day tackled the Middle Route (5.9) on Tom's Thumb, a 500 foot tower that climbs up the very heart of the Lone Peak's South Summit. The climbing was stellar and the views from on top of the walls were almost equally impressive. Can't say I've climbed better routes...anywhere.


The camping was awesome as well. This is one camp spot that earns a perfect 10 for scenery in my eyes. A soft green meadow surrounded by stark, soaring walls rimmed with lingering snowfields. Little yellow wildflowers added a touch of color to the lush meadow floor and pikas squeaked from beneath the car-sized boulders.


This is one of those spots I'd rather not write-up for fear that too many people knowing about it might wreck its solitary, isolated character. But as Kelley and I decided after our second climb, the place is just too hard to get to ever get really crowded. There are three different trails to reach Lone Peak Cirque and they're all brutal. We took the route up from Alpine, which is a climber's trail if I've ever seen one. Straight up for about 5,000 vertical feet. Lone Peak Cirque's elevation is 10,412 feet and the parking area in the town of Alpine is about 4,951 feet. So be ready to get a workout.


There's lots more info about the cirque in Stuart and Bret Ruckman's Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range. You can also find details about Lone Peak, climbing routes, approach info, etc online at Mountain Project.

Utah is going Bear Crazy!

Another bear was killed in Utah on Wednesday when a Garfield County resident perceived the animal as a threat. That's the sixth bear that's been illegally killed without a permit in Utah this year. Here's the complete story in the Salt Lake Tribune. Its understandable that people are nervous around bears after the incident two summers ago in American Fork Canyon. On June 18th, 2007 a boy who was camping with his family was dragged from his tent and then mauled to death by a black bear. It was the first fatal bear attack in Utah's history. While the incident has everyone on edge, people need to understand that it's not okay to kill bears when they encounter them in the wild. Biologists are not certain what Utah's bear population is, but they estimate it's between 3,000 and 4,000 animals. That's a small bear population, especially for a state with so much wild land.

What should be done then if you encounter a bear? First off, consider yourself lucky! It's rare to see a bear in Utah, and you should be excited to see one in it's natural environment. Second, give the bear plenty of room. Bears are wild animals and their actions are difficult to predict. Black bears are not typically aggressive, so your first reaction shouldn't necessarily be fear. If the bear feels threatened, or feels it needs to protect its cubs, it may react aggressively, but usually black bears are very mellow, calm animals. Bears should be naturally afraid of humans. When they lose this natural fear is when problems occur. Finally report the bear to the local authority, especially if its hanging around an area close to humans. Leave it to the experts. It's not your place to take care of the problem.

If you're camping, be aware that your actions as a camper can have both a positive or negative effect on bears. Camping in bear country carries with it a responsibility. Leaving food and garbage out in camp can attract bears. Bears have a keen sense of smell and can smell food from miles away. Use bear boxes if they're provided and don't leave any food out around camp. Never eat or store food in your tent. Absolutely never feed bears. When bears gain access to human food, it hurts the bears and creates a potentially dangerous situation. Human food is far more nutritious than bear's natural diet. Once bears start eating human food, they'll go to great lengths to continue. Because relocation efforts are largely unsuccessful, bears that start eating human food usually end up being killed. As the old adage goes, "A fed bear is a dead bear." In developed campgrounds use provided bearproof lockers and in the backcountry carry bear canisters or effectively hang your food.

Ferruginous Hawks struggling in Eastern Utah

Any of you who are birders might find this story in the Salt Lake Tribune interesting. Sounds like the Ferruginous hawk population living in the Uinta Basin near Vernal is struggling. There's been extensive development of the natural gas resources there and the long term disturbance has had a detrimental effect on the nesting activities of these raptors. Here's the link to the story. What's encouraging about the story is someone (the group Utah Wildlife in Need) is actually doing something positive for the birds.

Zion National Park's Horse Fire Update

In the previous post we talked about the lodgepole pines trees and how wildfire plays a role in their life cycle. Lodgepoles are a "pioneer" species, meaning they are the first tree to re-establish after a forest fire. We also discussed how the government's policy of forest suppression over the past 50-100 years has resulted in a forest make-up that is possibly more suseptible to pest infestation. Fire management has changed radically in recent years, and the Horse Fire in Zion National Park is a perfect example. I started following the progression of the Horse Fire two weeks ago on July 9th. Rather than aggressively put out the fire, the fire fighters on the Horse Fire have been letting the fire burn, in a controled fashion. Here's the goal, according to the National Park Service Website update:

"The fire is burning in a fire-adapted ecosystem and is achieving the resource benefits it is being managed for. Most of the area has shown a light understory burn, with little torching of larger trees. This will reduce the amount of dead and down fuel and provide an opportunity to regenaration of native plants. The reduction of fuels will also lower the risk of wildfire to adjacent private lands from future wildfires."

Although the fire has closed a section of the West Rim Trail for a couple weeks, its in the remote, northern portion of the park. Aside from some smoke settling Zion Canyon at night, there little adverse effects from the fire. Its cool to see a new approach being implemented! If you'd like to learn more about what's going on with the fire here a link to the NPS page.

Utah Field Guide - Lodgepole Pines and how the tiny pine bark beetle is transforming the forests of the American West

Why are the forests dying? I get this question almost every day on my raft when I'm working as a river guide. I guide on the Salmon River near Stanley, Idaho, in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area, one of the prettiest natural settings in the United States. The surroundings are gorgeous, but there's no denying it, the forests around the river are dying. Everywhere you look, you see stands of red (starting to die) and brown (dead) trees clustered together in sad, lifeless clumps.


The die-off isn't limited to Idaho. You'll see it anywhere in the American West where lodgepole pines grow. The entire Rocky Mountain Region is suffering from the blight. Including Utah. The problem is particularly apparent in the Uinta Mountains along the Mirror Lake Highway, where the trees are withering by the hundreds in almost every campground. Who's the killer? And why isn't anyone doing anything about it?

The lodgepole pine forest is being killed by the Rocky Mountain pine bark beetle (Dendroctonus ponderosae). That's right, tiny (1/2 centimeter long) beetles who burrow into the bark of the tree and kill the host from the inside out. In the Western United States and Canada bark beetles have killed 36,000 square miles of forest. Depending on the area, beetles have infested as much as 40% of the lodgepole trees in the forests, and may kill up to 80-90% of the mature trees before they're done. With 90% of the trees dead, the forests will look almost entire devoid of green, living trees.

Isn't there something we can do to stop the beetles? We'll dive into that later. But first lets get a little more familiar with lodgepole pines, how to recognize them, where to find them and why they're such an important part of Utah's mountain ecosystems.

Characteristics: Lodgepole pine trees (pinus contorta) are distinctly recognizable by their rail straight trunks and high thin crowns. Their trunks are popular for traditional fences on western
ranches and are often used to build cabins because they are so consistently straight. Historically in Utah, lodgepoles were used to support mine shafts and for railroad ties. The needles of a lodgepole pines are short (relative to ponderosa pines), about 2 inches long and grow coupled together with other needles. The needles are twisted or contorted, giving the tree its scientific name pinus contorta. The bark is thin and scaly, and ranges in color from orange-brown to gray.





Where to find lodgepole pines: Lodgepole pines usually grow above 6,000 feet in elevation in mountainous terrain. In Utah lodgepoles pines can be found in the mountains in the northern half of the state. The Uinta Mountains have the largest and most widespread distribution of lodgepole. Stands of these trees will often be associated with a natural disturbance such as fire, or in areas where the forest has been cleared by people. Their cones need extreme heat to release their seeds. In nature this heat is only generated by wildfire, so fire is necessary part of the lifecycle of lodgepole pines. Their niche as the first species to establish after forest fires makes a "pioneer species" playing an important role in forest succession.

Now that we have a feel for what lodgepole pines look like and where they live, lets explore what's happening with the forest and the pine bark beetle.

Pine bark beetle infestation: Pine bark beetles have always been present in the Rocky Mountain environment. The populations ocilate on a boom and bust cycle, much like other insects. The most recent major infestation occurred in 1983. Beetles attack the tree by tunneling into the bark where they lay their eggs. Young larvae mature inside the tree before leaving it to find a new host for the next generation.

What makes this infestation different from previous ones is how large and widespread it is. Biologists believe there are several factors contributing to the scale of this infestation. One factor is the current make-up of the forest. Pine bark beetles only infest mature lodgepole pines. We've already mentioned that lodgepole forests tend to develop in places where there's been some disturbance, whether that be a wildfire, or a man-made, such as logging. The suppression of forest fires may be playing a role in this current cycle. Because there have been less frequent fire events overall in the American West in the last 50-100 years, there are more mature trees in the forest for the bark beetles to attack. This is a result of larger trees not being burned in fires, but also a lack of fires releasing seeds from cones. So, there is effectively more food and habitat for these beetles than during previous cycles. Another contributing factor may be a prolonged and widespread drought. The trees natural defense against the beetle is sap. Trees bleed thick, viscus sap in an effort to flush the beetles out of the their bark and prevent them tunneling into the tree. Drought conditions prevent the trees from producing as much sap, thereby reducing their natural defense system against the beetles. Warmer weather has also aided the beetles in their expansion. Week-long periods of extreme cold weather can kill entire generations of pine beetles, but a long run of warmer winters has allowed the pest to survive.

What can be done about this outbreak? Unfortunately, not much. Typically outbreaks last for one to three decades. A long period of bitter cold temperatures could cause the outbreak to collapse. But much more likely, it'll be matter a the beetles running out of food - meaning most of the trees will be dead.

Mountain Bike Race at Solitude in Big Cottonwood Canyon

The Chris Allaire Memorial Mountain Bike Race is being held tomorrow, Saturday, July 18 at Solitude Mountain Resort in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The race is the Utah Open State Championship. The racing starts at 8:15AM and continues through the final starting time at 11:00AM.

Fore more information call Ed Chauner (801) 942-3498 or online at www.intermountaincup.com.

Free Weekend in Utah's National Park!

Have you heard about the National Parks System's Fee Free Weekends? The National Park Service is waving the ENTRANCE FEE to the National Parks in over 100 different parks this weekend (July 18th and 19th) and again for the weekend of August 15th and 16th. Here's the link to the NPS site. In Utah the parks that are included are some of the state's (and the country's) best. Here's the list (with photos for inspiration!):

Arches National Park








Bryce Canyon National Park








Canyonlands National Park








Capitol Reef National Park












Cedar Breaks National Monument








Dinosaur National Monument








Hovenweep National Monument












Zion National Park








Golden Spike National Historic Site

Natural Bridges National Monument

Granted a lot of the smaller parks don't charge a entrance fee anyway, but Arches, Bryce, and Zion all normally charge a hefty fee, so this is really awesome deal. With five national parks in southern Utah, you could save a Benjamin over the weekend. Note: only the entrance fee is being waived, you'll still have to pay for camping, tours and concessions. If you're going to go camping in the one of the parks check out our guidebook Moon Utah Camping for a complete guide to every campground in Utah's national parks and the state as a whole.

Mountain Biking in Park City (with Video)

Wildfire closes the West Rim Trail in Zion National Park

A wildfire, named the Horse Fire, is currently burning in the high country of Zion National Park near the West Rim Trail. The fire is approximately 1.5 miles southeast of Lava Point. The fire was started by a lightning strike on the 4th of July. The National Park Service has closed the trail from Lava Point to Potato Hollow. The small fire has burned 20 acres and is being managed by a multi-agency team including the park service, BLM and Utah state officials.

Here's the view down into Zion Canyon from Lava Point, where the fire is burning.


If you've got a trip planned to Zion, don't panic. This is a small fire in the northern part of the park. Unless you're planning on backpacking the entire length of the remote West Rim Trail, the fire probably won't have a significant impact on your visit. Zion Canyon (the main attraction in the park) is still open and as accessible as ever. The park service expects some smoke may settle into Zion Canyon at night, but doesn't predict it will be a major concern. If you'd like read the official park service report on the fire you can see it here.

If you're heading to Zion, pick up a copy of our camping guide, Moon Utah Camping. The book has all the info you'll need for camping in the park as well as recommended hikes in Zion Canyon.